Training Your Hair for Waves
Your Brush and Brushing
Wave Styling & Maintenance
continue. . .
Big Ben's
Before you even think of embarking on a wave training program, make sure your hair and scalp are in good health. If your scalp is dry or you are battling dandruff, take action to remedy your scalp problems. You should take a look at your schedule and find times of the day when you are able to devote adequate time, whereas training your waves will require lengthy effort (especially in the beginning) to persuade your hair away from immediately curling upon its departure from the follicle.
First and foremost, you will need a men's hand brush. It is important to use a hand brush as brushes with handles and convex bristle placements are designed to brush through longer hair. Handled brushes do not offer the sort of control required to develop your wave pattern and locating a handled brush in the array of bristle firmness that men's brushes come in can prove to be difficult.
There are many factors that one need take into account when purchasing a brush. You should first assess the texture of your hair. Fine or less curly hair will require a soft to medium bristle brush. Be wary that some brushes for these hair types may actually be too soft and will be ineffective in producing waves. If in doubt, step up to a brush with harder bristles. If you possess hair that is really, really thick or has a very tight curl pattern you should choose a brush within the hard to very hard bristle firmness range. These very firm bristles will not only be responsible for brushing your hair into the desired direction, but will be literally pulling each strand of hair along your scalp so it conforms to your head's contours and begins to wave.
Another staple will be a mild, yet effective shampoo. Additionally, be sure to pick up a high quality nylon or spandex durag or stocking cap. The headgear you choose will serve two roles in the development of your waves; it will help slow the releasing of moisture from your hair and scalp and will protect your waves from the ravaging effects your pillow through a night's sleep.
Brushes with wooden bases and 50% boar bristle 50% synthetic bristle composition are your best choice but will also be costly. You may find yourself going through a small trial and error process in order to find a brush that yields good results if you choose a fully synthetic bristle brush.
Once you have made your brush selection you are obviously ready to begin brushing. On your first day it is advisable to have your first brushing session after your morning shower. Blot your scalp dry if you are not in the habit of doing this already. If you are accustomed to rubbing your head dry this will complicate the appearance of waves in future weeks as you will be tussling your hair out of pattern. Once the excess water has been blotted from your head, stand in front of a mirror or if you have a mirror setup that enables you to see the back and sides of your head, all the better. Watching yourself in the mirror for the first few days will be fundamental in developing good brushing form and habits. After a few days pass, muscle memory will take over and you will be brushing in good form with or without a mirror. It is worth noting that some prefer to complete their morning brushing session while in the shower. While the concept behind this (your hair being constantly doused with water) is great, beginners should refrain from this method until their brushing technique has been thoroughly established. Failure to follow good form can be counterproductive in the formation of waves.
Your first application of the brush should be to the top of your head. Brush this area forward, starting at the peak of your head and finishing on the sides, right below the where the side of your head begins, or on the side about an inch and a half above the eye line. Brush through at least 50 strokes.
Your second brushing area should be the back of the head down to the neck. This area should be brushed from the rear crown (where you see guys getting a bald spot) downward and extending to the sides just behind the ears for another 50 strokes at least.
The final portion of the head that requires brushing are the sides. Being that this final area essentially closes the gaps between the top and back, you must compromise between the forward and downward strokes used to maintain the 360 degree circular look. Begin just below the crown of your head, right above your ear and with a diagonal motion toward your cheeks, brush through at least 50 strokes on each side.
Many feel that this morning brushing session is the most important as it sets the pace for the maintenance brushing you will be doing the rest of the day. Another benefit of the morning session is that is the time when your hair will be at its most hydrated, making it much more agreeable to waving versus curling.
For the remainder of the day, continue to brush in the exact same pattern that you established in the morning. If you have a few minutes as you prepare for a morning meeting, on your way out to lunch or even as you prepare for a trip to the gym in the late afternoon, try to factor in at least three additional daytime brushing sessions.
Your final session will come before bed. This session is also important as you will be in the comfort of your own home and will be able to moisten your hair and scalp with a quick rinse, a warm towel wrapped around your head for three to five minutes. Perform your preferred method of moisturizing and begin to bush your soft, pliable hair with the brushing technique. After this nighttime session, throw on your durag or stocking cap so you do not ruin your hard work while you sleep.
As your waves become more pronounced and defined you will probably feel the need to purchase a new brush with firmer bristles. This is due in part to your hair becoming longer and offering more resistance to the bristles and because brushes do lose their firmness with repeated use over time.
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