This is it. The fastest, most powerful Cadillac
ever built. The fastest, most powerful American sedan in history, for
that matter. Locked, loaded, and gunning for Europe's heavy-hitting
sport sedans-BMW M5, Mercedes-Benz E63 AMG, Audi
RS6. Read all that again. Now pinch yourself. No, you're not dreaming.
Motown -- well, GM at least -- has its mojo back. Meet Cadillac's
monster new CTS-V. Cadzilla, if you will.
Here
are the raw numbers: 550 horsepower at 6200 rpm. 550 pound-feet of
torque at 4000 rpm. They're only official "estimates," but as the
engine under the new CTS-V's
power-domed hood is fundamentally the same as the supercharged V-8
that's credited with 620-plus horsepower and at least 600 pound-feet in
the hot new Corvette
ZR1, you can safely assume the real SAE-certified figures will be
close. "I'm confident we'll disappoint nobody with the numbers," says
Ed Piatek, the CTS-V's program engineering manager.
There
are no performance figures yet, but by way of context, AMG's E63 Benz
nails 60 mph in 4.3 seconds. The new CTS-V weighs about the same and
has at least 43 more horses and 85 pound-feet more torque. Draw your
own conclusions: The car also has been extensively tested on the
legendary Nurburgring Nordschliefe, and while insiders are tight-lipped
on the actual lap time -- for now -- they will admit Cadzilla has
terrorized factory hotshoes from Munich out on the daunting 13-mile
road course. "People who've never been passed by a Cadillac have now
had that experience," smiles Piatek.
Piatek works for
the GM in-house hot-shop, High Performance Vehicle Operations, headed
by John Heinricy, and was the man tasked with overseeing the
transformation of the COTY-winning CTS into Cadzilla. He had good raw
material to work with: Unlike the previous model, the new CTS was
engineered from the outset with the high-performance V-series model in
mind, with extra stiffening and strengthening built in. "That was a
lesson we learned with the first CTS-V," says Piatek. "If you start
with this [idea] going in, there may be a small mass penalty on the
base car, but there's less cost and tooling needed to do the V."
As
a result, the basic CTS body structure is little altered. Most of the
changes that have been made-mainly around the front and rear suspension
cradles and the suspension links-are purely to handle the much higher
cornering loads induced by the specially developed 19-inch Michelin Pilot
Sport 2 tires and the prodigious torque output from the engine. On that
last point, everything rear of the front transmission flange has been
beefed up. There's a larger-diameter prop shaft, and asymmetric
halfshafts (one side is a 55mm-diameter unit, the other 35mm) to help
reduce wheelhop under full power launches).
Description | Color | Location | Polarity | Notes |
Constant | White | Ignition Harness | + | Shows power regardless of key position |
Starter | Black/White | Ignition Harness | + | Shows power while key is at "START" |
Ignition | Black/Yellow | Ignition Harness | + | Shows power while key is "ON" and "START" |
Accesory | Black/Red | Ignition Harness | + | Shows power while key is "ON" only (this powers the Air/Heat) |
Power Lock | White/Blue | Driver Kick | - | See picture below |
Power Unlock | White/Green | Driver Kick | - | See picture below |
Door Trigger | Lt Green/Red and Green | Security Plug | - | See picture below |
Trunk/Hatch Trigger | Red | Security Plug | - | See picture below |
Light Flash | Blue | Security Plug | - | See picture below |
Engine Control Unit, or ECU. Actually with the introduction of OBD-II the name was officially changed to ECM (Engine Control Module). But everyone still knows it as the ECU so let's just keep calling it that so we all understand what we're talking about.
The ECU's of today are very sophisticated computer chips that monitor all the data recorded by the various sensors in the engine. Not only do they monitor the engine, they can also make changes based on the data that was recorded to keep the engine running at it's maximum possible efficiency. When a modification is done on one of our cars, the program that the ECU was running ends up conflicting with what is now going on in the engine. This can cause problems especially at idle when the engine hangs in the dangerously low RPMs or just stalls out. So instead of waiting for the ECU to adjust itself, you might need to reset it manually.
3A7-4405-AB2D-2761DC15A96D/articles/misc_projects/ecub1.jpg">3A7-4405-AB2D-2761DC15A96D/articles/misc_projects/ecus1.jpg" alt="See Closeup" title="See Closeup" border="1" /> 3A7-4405-AB2D-2761DC15A96D/articles/misc_projects/ecub2.jpg">3A7-4405-AB2D-2761DC15A96D/articles/misc_projects/ecus2.jpg" alt="See Closeup" title="See Closeup" border="1" />
NOTE: I am not saying this is the only way to reset the ECU. I understand there are many other ways but I have found this way to be easiest and, most importantly, the safest. This was done on a 3rd generation Integra, for 1st and 2nd generations, consult your manual for proper fuse locations. If you still have your stock radio, you will need the security code given to you by your Acura dealer or (hopefully) by the person who sold you the car.
Make sure the car has already been warmed up to normal operating temperature and is turned off. Pop the hood and find the fuse box. It will be on the passenger side next to the battery as you can see in the first picture. Remove the lid and pull out both fuses as pictured in the second picture.
Leave the fuses out for a few minutes to allow all the old data to be wiped out. Plug the fuses back in. It doesn't matter if you plug them in upside down or whatever they don't have any polarity so just make sure you plug the right fuse in the right place and you're all good. Make sure to replace the fuse box cover as well.
Start up the car and let it idle for about 10 minutes. Don't hit the gas pedal during this time. This time allows your ECU to make new data based on how much air it sees coming into. Use this time to reset your radio stations and clock. After 10 minutes is up, turn the car off.
That's it, you're done. Once you start the car up again, the ECU should be aware of the changes to the motor. Have fun!
| |
Basic Warranty: | 1 Year / Unlimited Miles |
Powertrain: | 1 Year / Unlimited Miles |
Rust-Through: | N/A |
| |
Steering: | Rack and Pinion, Assisted |
Turns, Lock to Lock: | 2.5 |
Turning Circle: | 41.6 ft. |
Suspension: | Front: Unequal Length Upper and Lower A-Arms, Coil Over Springs, Remote Reservoir-Adjustable Penske Coil-Over Shocks, Cab Controlled Air Lift, Anti-Roll Bar. Rear: Unequal Lengths Upper Rocker and Lower A-Arm, Adjustable Coil-Over Springs, Remote Reservoir-Adjustable Penske Coil-Over Shock, Anti-Roll Bar. |
Coefficient of Drag (Cd): | 0.357 |
Frontal Area: | 19.0 sq. ft. |
Belly Pan: | Complete flat belly pan with rear Venturi tunnels. |
| |
| |
Gear | Ratio | RPM | MPH |
1st | 3.00:1 | 7200 | 58.517 |
2nd | 2.15:1 | 7200 | 81.651 |
3rd | 1.5:1 | 7200 | 117.033 |
4th | 1.1304:1 | 7200 | 155.294 |
5th | 0.8667:1 | 7200 | 202.557 |
6th | 0.6452:1 | 7200 | 272.102 |
Final Drive Ratio: 3.4444:1 Engine RPM @ 60 Top Gear: 1550 |
| |
Includes: | Air Conditioning, Power Windows, Power Mirrors, Tilt-Steering, Cab-Controlled Front Air Lift |
0-60 mph: | 2.78 seconds |
1/4 Mile: | 9.90 seconds at 144 mph |
Top Speed: | 257.41 MPH / Official Average: 256.15 MPH |
Skidpad: | 1.05 g |
0-100mph-0: | 11.66 |
60mph-0 (braking): | 103 feet |